A Wealthy North Omaha?

The Nebraska Goodwill, located at 16th and Cuming.

Long before becoming a decrepit pipeline for the neglect of old North Omaha, North 16th Street had a history almost as long as the city itself. Beginning as a row of rural estates for the city's leaders, it evolved into an important residential, commercial, and industrial byway that the city depended on.

Before anyone developed N. 16th, it was the country road that led to the old town of Saratoga.  Founded in 1856, Saratoga depended on a bend in the Missouri River for its business. Although the town formally boomed and busted within two years of its founding, people kept living there. Eventually it was annexed into Omaha, and now it blends in with the area around it. But when the Omaha Horse Railway inched passengers with a wagon and horses along the route to the old town, visitors would have seen Erastus Beadle's house. Beadle was the town founder who moved on to a small town called Denver after his first attempt at profiteering off the west didn't work out. The next time it did. They also would've seen a Presbyterian school called Talbot Hall, and an old Englishman named Richard Siemon's brewery in Saratoga, too.

Country Estates

N. 16th once meandered along with a grand view of the Missouri and it's broad river valley. Horse-drawn coaches would inch through the fields and forests along the way. It was along this bucolic drive that the city's original business barons built their plush country estates. They lobbied for the street to be renamed for one of their heroes from the Civil War, the decorated, ruthless Civil War general William Tecumseh Sherman. The likes of Andrew Poppleton, a territorial lawyer, built a mansion at 1560 Sherman Avenue. Many of his colleagues in business, government, and industry did the same, and that is how N. 16th originally served as a broad country road for the broad country estates of Omaha's wealthy class.

Plush Apartment Row

Times changed. As more industry moved onto Sherman Avenue and businesses stacked onto it's corners, the wealthy estate owners moved to other environs. Moving along N. 16th in the late 19th century, a traveler would've seen a transforming area.

The Sherman Apartments at 2501 N. 16th Street.

They would have seen the 1897 Sherman Apartments, one of the city's first-ever apartment buildings, located at 2501 North 16th Street. Built reminiscent of a Greek temple with fat front columns and triangular rooftops, The Sherman stands today as a testimony to the influence of the Trans-Mississippi on the city during that period. Another important residence was built just about 100 years ago, in 1916, at 2103 N. 16th St. Called The Margaret, these apartments were fancy, high-end rentals for the metropolitan suburbanites who lived along Sherman Avenue and commuted on the streetcar into downtown Omaha.

Right across the street from The Margaret is an even more grand edifice to the area's once luxurious lifestyles, the Strehlow Terrace. Built between 1905 and 1916, the complex included four buildings designed in the Prairie architecture style. Huddled around a courtyard and fountain, the complex was designed for professional class residents to enjoy their apartment lives. Luscious landscaping and suave marketing kept the complex fancy for some time.

The Apartments at 2514 N. 16th Street.

Near 16th and Lake, at 2514 North 16th Street, the last notable, existent set of apartments still stands, although in worse repair than the others mentioned here. It was finished in 1929 as a small four-plex apartment building, and is being rehabilitated today. Upscale living when it was completed, each unit had murphy beds, fancy Craftsman fixtures and woodwork, and extravagant tiling throughout. It was indicative of the apartment corridor that North 16th was, and holds one of the keys to the area's future.


By the beginning of the 21st century the corridor was changing. Gone by then would have been any evidence of the 1898 Trans-Mississippi Exposition. After eliminating the possibilities of hosting it at the junction of N. 16th and J.J. Pershing Drive in East Omaha, the Expo's businessmen-leaders selected a site along N. 24th St. and bordered by N. 16th. Extravagant buildings and grand pond of the site were all gone, but memories lingered. They lingered in the form of the Douglas County Fairgrounds and the Sunset Driving Park, both of which were located between N. 16th and Florence Boulevard, south of Commercial Avenue.

Urbanizing the Corridor

Just 100 years ago, driving up 16th Street from downtown Omaha into the north side was a treat for the eyes. A thriving center of the city's most important industry of the period, which was beer, there were also important places to live and essential places to go. Its a far cry from the fear of North Omaha that many people have today, and it deserves a closer look on the history of North Omaha blog.

The Storz Brewery, located at 16th and Charles.

More than 125 years ago, Joseph S. Bauman, a German brewmaster, started the Columbia Brewery in 1863. Just before his death in 1876 Bauman brought Gottlieb Storz to Omaha from Germany as the brewmaster. Storz expanded it vastly and built the grand Storz Brewery. Along with other companies in the city's Big 4 brewers, Storz went on to make Omaha into a premier Midwestern beer manufacturing center in the Midwest for the next century. The brewery closed in 1972, but a large portion of the original building stands today.

An old fire station at 1017 N. 16th St.

During this time the corridor was evolving into a more urban feeling. The nearby North 24th Street corridor was primary host to the city's African American community, and was filled with cultural, commercial, and religious institutions that were bursting with the energy and excitement of a thriving community. North 16th was bustling, too, even if devoid of a unique cultural identity. It had all the commercial vigor anyway, with department stores, specialty boutiques, and groceries lining the blocks. There were constant streetcars and private cars trolling the way, with cops and buskers on every corner.

Around the beginning of the early 20th century, at the very northern end of Sherman Avenue was a little farming community called East Omaha. It was home to a grocery, churches, and a cluster of small homes in a rural setting. Further north was the Missouri River as it bent a contour towards Saratoga. Just before the river was the little Florence Lake and a one-room country school called Beechwood School, which was brought into the Omaha School District in the 1940s. Also in this community was Sherman School, which went through various iterations before exclusively becoming an elementary school.

Modern Times

Today, North 16th is a meager shadow of it's former self. Left to rot and decay by the City of Omaha and it's investors, it is a sore sight in need of a lot of love. The grandeur of the Trans-Mississippi, the exclusivity of upper-class lifestyles, and the upbeatness of suburban sprawl have all left the heart of this place. In their places are community depression, cyclical neglect, and local government ineptitude in the face of change. Hopefully time will emerge the champion as targeted investment renews life to old apartments and reminds Omahans of their roots.

In the meantime, we can remember that North 16th Avenue was ALIVE a hundred years ago, and discover that part of it's history lives in each of us who cares to learn more.

Check out the accompanying map I made!

Businesses 

These are businesses along North 16th Street. They were located there anytime between 1880 and 1956.

• David B. Gross pawn dealer at 410 N. 16th St
• City and Loyal Furniture shop at 223 N. 16th St
• Brodegaard Brothers Jewelers at N. 16th and Douglas Sts.
• Stewarts Seed Store at 119 N. 16th Street
• Harmon and Weeth Coal at 1503 N. 16th
• Bonoff Sample Store at 206 N. 16th St.
• Mrs. A. Huster Millinery in the Hotel Loyal Bldg at 221 N. 16th St.
• Holcomb Chemical Products Company at 918 N. 16th St.
• Hollywood Spots-Lite Company at 912 N. 16th St.
• Black's Annex at 702 N. 16th St.
• Ken's Cafe at 2304 N. 16th St.
• Omaha Updike Milling Company at 1513-23 N. 16th Ave.

Historical Tour of North Omaha

I am fascinated by the history of North Omaha, Nebraska. After spending a decade growing up near 24th and Fort, I was infused with the rich history of the community by many of the adults who made my teenage life rich and successful.

Stemming from that fascination, I have researched and written more than 200 articles on Wikipedia about North Omaha history. I have researched the city using the Internet and a collection of local history books, articles, and a small trove of artifacts I collected as a youth.

The people who built my appreciation for North O's history included the spectacular Ernest Nedds, who introduced me to many of the neighborhoods in the area and the breadth and depth of history in North Omaha starting when I was 14. Helen Saunders taught me a little bit about the culture before that point. My mother-of-other-brothers, Betty Peoples, hauled me around the neighborhood and through its realities. David Porter and Margaret Hansen piqued my interest in the architecture of the area. Jeff Koneck was my forth grade teacher who showed me the city had a history, while Van Tremble was a mentor in boy scouts who retired as an undertaker and showed me the richness of the city's African American culture.

Following is a list of those articles I wrote. If you have anything you would like me to write about, add, or otherwise know, please share here. I LOVE NORTH O! These are listed by neighborhood from Dodge Street northwards.

An introduction to North Omaha history

• History of North Omaha
• Timeline of North Omaha history

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Downtown Omaha neighborhood north of Dodge

• Omaha High School/Omaha Central High School, 1900 124 N. 20th St.
• Squatter's Row, Between N. 11th and N. 13th St., from Nicholas to Locust St.
• Holy Family Church, 915 N. 18th St.
• Jefferson Square, Bounded by North 15th, 16th, Chicago and Cass Streets
• Market House, Capitol Avenue from North 12th to North 14th Avenues
• Florence Boulevard, Burt St. north to J.J. Pershing Dr.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Near North Side neighborhood

• Near North Side neighborhood, N. 16th St.to 30th St.; Cuming St.to Locust St.
• Storz Brewery, 1807 N. 16th St.
• Fair Deal Cafe, 2118 N. 24th St.
• Carver Savings and Loan Association, 2416 Lake St.
• Technical High School, 3215 Cuming St.
• Howard Kennedy School, 2906 N. 30th St.
• Paul Street School/Kellom Elementary School, 1311 N. 24th St.
• Lake School, 2410 N. 19th St.
• Long School, 2520 Franklin St.
• George H. Kelly House, 1924 Binney St.
• Broomfield Rowhouse, 2502-2504 Lake St.
• Webster Telephone Exchange Building, 2213 Lake St.
• St. John's African Methodist Episcopal Church, 1921-562402 N. 22nd St.
• Calvin Memorial Presbyterian Church, 3105 N. 24th St.
• Malcolm X Birth Site3448 Pinkney St.
• Jewell Building/Dreamland Ballroom, 2221 N. 24th St.
• Jewell Building, 2221 N. 24th St.
• Lizzie Robinson House, 2864 Corby St.
• Sacred Heart Catholic Church, 2206 Binney St.
• Holy Family Catholic Church, 915 N. 18th St.
• George F. Shepard House, 1802 Wirt St.
• The Sherman, 2501 N. 16th St.
• Harry Buford House, 1804 N. 30th St.
• Zion Baptist Church, 2215 Grant St.
• Strehlow Terrace, 2024 N. Sixteenth St.
• The Sherman, 2501 N. 16th St.
• Logan Fontenelle Housing Project, 20th to 24th Streets, and from Paul to Seward Streets

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Gifford Park neighborhood 

• Gifford Park, North Freeway to N. 38th St.; Dodge to Cuming St.
• Garneau-Kilpatrick House, 3100 Chicago St.
• Melrose Apartments, 602 N. 33rd St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Monmouth Park/North High neighborhood

• Monmouth Park School, 4508 North 33rd St.
• Omaha North High School, 4410 N 36th St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Adams Park neighborhood

• Lizzie Robinson House, 2864 Corby St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Bemis Park neighborhood

• Bemis Park Landmark Heritage District, Cuming St. to Hawthorne Ave., Glenwood Ave. to N. 33rd St.
• Zabriskie House, 3524 Hawthorne Ave.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Gold Coast neighborhood 

• Gold Coast Historic District, N. 36th St. on the east to N. 30th on the west; Jones St. on the north to Cuming St. on the south.
• George A. Joslyn Mansion, 3902 Davenport St.
• Havens-Page House, 101 North 39th St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Kountze Place neighborhood 

• Kountze Place, N. 16th Avenue to N. 30th St.; Locust St. to Pratt St.
• Kountze Park, 1920 Pinkney St.
• Trans-Mississippi Exposition Site, 1920 Pinkney St.
• Sacred Heart Catholic Church Complex, 2206 Binney St.
• Charles Storz House, 1901 Wirt St.
• John P. Bay House, 2024 Binney St.
• Redick Mansion, 3612 N. 24th St.
• Lothrop School, 3300 N. 22nd St.
• George F. Shepard House, 1802 Wirt St.
• George H. Kelly House, 1924 Binney St.
• Omaha Presbyterian Theological Seminary, 3303 North 21st Place.
• North/Calvin Memorial Presbyterian Church, 3105 N. 24th St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Benson neighborhood

• Benson neighborhood, Fontenelle Blvd. to N. 72nd St., Blondo to Ames Ave.
• Benson City Hall, 6008 Maple St.
• Monroe Middle School, 5105 Bedford Ave.
• Krug Park/Gallagher Park, 2936 N. 52nd St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Orchard Hill neighborhood 

• Orchard Hill neighborhood, Hamilton St.to Blondo St.; N. 36th St.to Military Ave.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Prospect Hill neighborhood 

• Prospect Hill neighborhood, N. 30th St.to 36th St.; Lake St.to Hamilton St.
• Prospect Hill Cemetery, 3202 Parker St.
• Salem Baptist Church, 3131 Lake St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Walnut Hill neighborhood

• Walnut Hill neighborhood, N. 40th St. to Saddle Creek Rd.; Cuming to Hamilton St.
• Walnut Hill Pumping Station, 38th and 40th St., from Hamilton to Nicholas St.
• Saunders School, 415 N. 41st Ave. 
• Epeneter House, 502 N. 40th St.
• St. Cecilia's Cathedral, 701 N. 40th St.
• Dr. Samuel D. Mercer House, 1885 3920 Cuming St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Saratoga neighborhood 

• Saratoga neighborhood, N. 24th St.between Ames Ave. and Storz Expressway.
• Saratoga School, 2504 Meredith Ave.
• Omaha Driving Park, Laird and Boyd Streets, and 16th to 20th Streets.

Articles I wrote about historical places in East Omaha

• East Omaha, Missouri River and Carter Lake to a cliff that is the finite western boundary that extends from Jaynes St. north to Reed St.
• Sherman Elementary School, 5618 North 14th Ave.
• Carter Lake Park, 3100 Abbott Dr.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Miller Park neighborhood

• Miller Park neighborhood, Florence Blvd. to N. 30th St.; Sorensen Parkway to Redick Ave.
• Miller Park, Saratoga St. on the south to Redick Ave. on the north; Florence Blvd. on the east to N. 30th St. on the west.
• Miller Park Elementary School, 5625 North 28th Ave.
• Pearl Memorial United Methodist Church, 2319 Ogden St.
• Fort Omaha Historic District, Fort Street on the South to Laurel Ave. on the North; N. 30th St. on the east to N. 33rd St. on the west.
• Fort Omaha Guardhouse, Intersection of N. 30th and Ellison Ave.
• Gen. George Crook House, 5730 N. 30th St.
• Fort Omaha Balloon School at Fort Omaha.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Central Park neighborhood

• Central Park neighborhood, N. 36th St. to Fontenelle Blvd., Ames Ave. to Sorenson Expressway
• Golden Hill Cemetery, 5109 N. 42 St.
• Pleasant Hill Cemetery 6412 N. 42nd St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Belvedere neighborhood

• McMillan Magnet Center, 3802 Redick Ave.
• Old People's Home, 3325 Fontenelle Blvd.
• Sorenson Parkway, from N. 30th St. to N. 90th St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Fontenelle Park neighborhood

• Fontenelle Park, 4575 Ames Ave.
• Fontenelle Boulevard, Military Rd. to N. 30th St.
• Nebraska School for the Deaf, 3223 N. 45th St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Minne Lusa neighborhood 

• Minne Lusa, N. 24th St.to 30th Street; Craig St. to Redick Ave.
• Minne Lusa Pumping Station, Grebe St. and John J. Pershing Dr.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Florence community

• Florence neighborhood, N. 30th St. between Craig Ave. and Bondesson St.
• Florence Mill, 9102 N. 30th St.
• Weber Mill, 9102 N. 30th St.
• Florence Depot, 9000 N. 30th St.
• Bank of Florence, 8502 N. 30th St.
• Florence School, 7902 N. 36th St.
• Florence Firehouse, 8415 N. 29th St.
• Florence Water Works, John J. Pershing Dr.
• Notre Dame Academy and Convent, 3501 State St.
• Keirle House, 3017 Mormon St.
• Potter's Field, 5000 Young St.
• Forest Lawn Cemetery, 7909 Mormon Bridge Rd.
• Mormon Pioneer Cemetery, 3301 State St.

Articles I wrote about historical places in the Ponca Hills community

• Dodge Park, 11001 John J. Pershing Dr.
• Hummel Park, 11808 John J. Pershing Dr.
• Fort Lisa, located approximately at the junction of J.J. Pershing Dr. and Ponca Rd.
• Cabanne's Post, located at the confluence of Ponca Creek and the Missouri River

Articles I wrote about other historical places in North Omaha

• Springwell Danish Cemetery, 6326 Hartman Ave.
• Scriptown, from the Missouri River to N. 30th Street, Cuming to Fort St.
• North 24th Street

If I'm missing anything you think needs to be added, please share your thoughts in the comments below!

Getting a Fair Deal Meal

Walking through the front door, I notice that as usual all the tables and the counter are crammed with people. This is the Fair Deal Cafe, run by old Charlie Hall since it opened in 1954. Run by him and his wife, its been known as Omaha's "Black City Hall" for more than 40 years. This scene is from my life in 1995.

"Just a sec, honey!" calls out a large woman as she swoops by with four plates packed with food. It was always a little awkward being the only white guy in the cafe, but I feel like I belonged there. I got in more trouble in my own neighborhood for being white than I did there.

As I stand at the doorway, a pair of stout workers lumber past me and out the door. The young guy busing tables clears off a small square in the front corner and I was ushered to sit down. A greasy menu smudged from too long use is handed to me and a cup of water is set on the table. Lazy white ceiling fans spin in slow motion from the tin ceiling.

The large woman comes to my table and kinda winks at me when she says hi and asks what I'd like. Knowing I'm the most special person in her day, I order a plate of fried chicken, mashed potatoes with gravy, some greens and Charlie's famous black eyed peas, along with a slice of sweet potato pie for desert, and a cup of black coffee. Its a huge meal, and since I've been working at the warehouse all night I figure I deserve it.

Charlie Hall, circa 1995.

As I'm flipping through a copy of the Omaha Star that was sitting on the counter, Clyde comes in. He works the same shift as me at the warehouse, and pulls up the chair at my table. After we talk for a minute he orders pancakes and eggs, also drinking a cup of black coffee. Just then three older men sitting at the front counter laugh loudly, patting each other on the backs.

"Fat cats," Clyde hisses. The guys at the counter are bookies, dressed nice and celebrating last night's take from the football season underway. Working at the corner of 24th and Fort, the oldest of them is Mister L, who used to tip me with a five dollar bill when I was his paperboy a decade earlier.

I finish shoveling in the last of the molasses-tinged sweet potato pie and set the paper on the table. Clyde left a while earlier, headed home to his Jamaican wife and six kids. Looking around the place, I wonder about the stories its walls could tell, smile, and leave a ten dollar bill on the table, which included a good tip.

That was the last meal I ate at Fair Deal. The next month I moved away from Omaha forever. Charlie's wife passed away soon after, and he decided he couldn't keep the place open without her and sold it. The new owner closed it in 2002.

• Here's a fine article about the restaurant, its food, and the community's culture. 
• Here's the Fair Deal Cafe Wikipedia article I wrote.